Well-worn paths

It was a brilliant autumn day in County Galway, in the west of Ireland. We were on Inish Mor, the largest of the Aran Islands, where you are never very far from the North Atlantic. And we were about as close as you could get to the ocean, following our guide around the edge of the island, high up on the limestone cliffs. At every turn, a picture-postcard view presented itself: sapphire blue ocean hurling itself against the base of the grey cliffs; our feet sometimes cushioned by lush grass, sometimes forced to find a tenuous hold on limestone worn sharp and rough by thousands and thousands of years of north Atlantic wind and rain.

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